Ali Sadpara and the search for comrades: Is this the longest rescue operation in the history of Pakistan's mountaineering?

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JP Mohar, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Jan Sunori (right to left)

Rescue operations for mountaineers Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Jan Sunori and Juan Pablo, who went missing on K2 during a winter adventure on February 5, have been virtually non-existent since February 15. However, according to Deputy Commissioner Shigar Azam Khan, there are currently 'High Altitude Porters' at the base camp, who are adapting to the weather and will be able to go up after that.

According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the families of John Sunori and Juan Pablo have now arrived in Islamabad. Consultations are underway with them at the government level.

It may be recalled that Pakistan's Ambassador for Goodwill and eminent climber Vanessa A. Bryan had earlier said in her press release that information about the rescue operation would be provided at a press conference on February 15. It will be held in February.

However, no press conference was held until the evening of February 17.

When contacted, Gilgit-Baltistan government officials said they were unable to provide any information.

We have tried to find out if this is the longest rescue mission ever and what were the main reasons for successful rescue operations in the past?

Is this the longest rescue operation for climbers?

According to Pakistani mountaineer Nazir Sabir, apart from the operation on K2, "in my memory, the search operation has not been continued for so long."

According to Nazir Sabir, "In my experience, only such rescue operations are successful, in which the operation can be started in a timely manner, without losing contact with the climbers and as much accurate information as possible about the place where they are facing difficulties." Be available

ALEX GAVAN

The height of K2 is 8611 meters which is only 200 meters less than the world's highest peak Everest but in winter the conditions here become deadly.

He said that the precious time in the operation on K2 was wasted at the very beginning when "we were celebrating the winter of K2 based on misinformation".

According to him, "If the situation had been assessed at that time, the results could have been different."

According to him, Pakistani mountaineer Fazal, who has climbed K2 three times, was present at Camp Two at that time. "If it had been known, he could have gone upstairs with his comrades instead of coming to base camp, which could have led to better results."

The reason for the success of rescue operations in the past

Karim Shah, another Pakistani mountaineer and co-ordinator of several rescue operations, told the BBC that in addition to K2's recent long rescue operation, a six-day long but successful rescue operation was also carried out in 2018.

According to him, the rescue operation was also successful because accurate information was available about the troubled climber.

He said that a similar operation was carried out for the missing climbers on Nanga Parbat in 2019 for six days. But he did not succeed because he was cut off.

"To date, no rescue operation has been successful in which I have lost contact with climbers," he said.

"In my opinion, when the temperature in K2 in winter is close to minus fifty and sixty and there are strong winds, even the strongest climber can get up to 20 hours," he said. Can compete.

However, according to him, in summer the temperature there is minus five to ten, which can be compared for a long time.

Karim Shah said, "In our experience, the climbers who get into trouble on K2, if they are hit by a glacier landslide, then their bodies are not found." They become part of K2. Similarly, strong winds do not help in the search.

According to him, in very rare cases, a body is also found, which is usually found by other climbers.

"Only courage can save your life."

Nazir Sabir told the BBC that in 2005, "an extremely difficult operation was successful. The world's most famous mountaineer Tomas came to the top of Nanga Parbat through me. During this time, he had problems at an altitude of 6,300 meters.

According to him, on this occasion, he wisely built an ice cave to save himself. From there he made contact to the base camp. When he spoke to me, I was the first to encourage him.

"I told him that you had risked your life to climb the mountain and that only courage could save your life."

Nazir Sabir said that a rescue operation could not be launched soon to rescue Tomas.

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According to Nazir Sabir, a modern plane coming from Russia to help him had returned from Switzerland due to various problems.

According to him, the President of Slovenia had spoken to the then President of Pakistan General Musharraf. This was followed by a very dangerous aerial operation. According to him, the video of this operation is still available, in which it can be seen how difficult the operation was. The operation eventually brought the climber to base camp.

"In my memory, three or four rescue operations have been successful, including a six-day rescue operation to rescue Russian mountaineer Alexander Gokov in 2019," Karim Shah said. He and his companions climbed a hill 'Lotto 1' and went home in trouble Yes.

According to him, one of his comrades was also killed and he was trapped in a place where the rescue operation was very difficult. Alexander Gokov was also rescued during a difficult aerial operation. It was also possible that they knew his whereabouts and were in touch.

Karim Shah said that another successful operation was carried out by Tomas McCooks.

He was returning from Nanga Parbat with his partner Elizabeth Review. On the way back, his condition worsened. Her comrade wisely left her in a safe place and came down herself and first reported the incident to Camp III and then she went to base camp.

Karim Shah said that on this occasion, a team of climbers on K2 had operated to help him and transferred him to a safe place. "This operation was also successful because we knew the location of their problems while they were in touch."